Oriana Chinni, Cosmetic Formulator
How many times have we woken up with the annoying feeling of having swollen and tired eyes? To notice bags, dark circles and periocular wrinkles and a duller look, increasingly surrounded by the inevitable signs of aging? Certainly many times!
The beauty of a woman is perceived by her gaze. Intense expression and brightness are the first things that come to the eyes of those you meet, and they reflect the well-being of the skin around the eyes. The saying “the eyes are the mirror of our soul” contains in a few words how much more true there can be, I would also add the skin that surrounds them!
Le borse, le occhiaie e le rughe perioculari sono inestetismi molto Bags, dark circles and periocular wrinkles are very common imperfections, they are more and more evident as we age, accentuated by periods or events that subject our body and our skin to continuous stress, making the face more tired, less luminous and aged.
What are the bags?
The bags they are generated starting from the loss of tone and elasticity of the tissues and are manifested by swelling under the eyes and sometimes with the presence of a dark halo. Their appearance can be linked to several factors: stress, particularly tiring periods, in which not enough hours of sleep accumulate, aging and oxidative stress.
Advancing age is one of the main reasons for the appearance of this imperfection. As we get older, the skin in the area around the eyes, which is particularly thin and delicate, loses elasticity and tone, tending to relax and increase the permeability of the local vascular system. Lower eyelid tissues may have a greater tendency to accumulate fluid due to local processes, such as atopy and systemic fluid retention. In some rarer cases, bursae can indicate some more serious pathologies.
What are dark circles?
Theeye bags they are mostly considered an “aesthetic concern”, they are defined pigmented macules, evident round and homogeneous in the periocular region. They appear as dark halos surrounding the eye making the look tired and dull, they can be sunken or slightly swollen.
This imperfection can be triggered by multiple etiological factors such as stress and lack of rest, family predisposition, dehydration of the eye area, excessive exposure to sunlight, photoaging, deposition of melanin in the dermis, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation/strong> resulting from contact dermatitis orallergie, shading due to skin laxity,smoke, alcool and unbalanced diet(2).
With the term KUMA we can encompass all the problems of the periocular area. Kuma is a word of Japanese origin which means “PANDA”, and is commonly used to indicate periocular problems such as dark circles and to a lesser extent bags, which resemble the dark area around the eyes, characteristic of this animal.
What is Kuma Teraphy?
Kuma therapy is an approach to fully address the imperfection of dark circles, which differ in color and the causes that determine their onset. There are various types of Kuma:
- Kuma Red,when the predominant color in dark circles is red and indicates inflammation
- Kuma Blue, when dark circles have a tendency to blue, linked to a circulation problem
- Kuma Brown, referred to brown dark circles when there is a problem of melanin accumulation
This makes us understand how complex and articulated the problem of dark circles is, because the evidence of the imperfection can be the result of one, two or all three of the problems mentioned above. This is why it is good to choose a product that acts completely on both inflammation and circulation and on the accumulation of melanin, to have a real effect on dark circles.
What are wrinkles and crow’s feet?
Worsening the appearance of the periocular area contributes to the loss of tone, elasticity and the appearance of the first signs of aging and the so-called“Crow’s feet”.
The skin surrounding the eye is an extremely delicate area, has different physiological characteristics than the surrounding skin, appears much thinner, the number of hair follicles and sebaceous glands is much lower, the collagen and elastic fibers of the dermis are numerically fewer , the subcutaneous fat is present in much less quantity and the lymphatic and blood circulation is rather slowed down.
All this contributes to making the periocular area extremely sensitive and much more subject to premature aging, at risk of the onset of expression lines and “crow’s feet”, because it is continuously subjected to environmental insults such as wind, humidity, temperature changes, and the natural movements of facial expressions.
In the laboratories of the BeC it was formulatedOro Rosa,an eye contour rich in plant active ingredients, able to act completely on all periocular problems.
What is Rose Gold and how does it work?
Oro Rosa is a delicate triple action emulsion formulated specifically for the eye contour, ophthalmologically tested, which makes the skin silky, compact, uniform, giving a luminous and fresh look. It performs an intensive anti-aging action, reducing wrinkles, counteracting the degradation of collagen by free radicals, exerts a botox-like and lifting action on the upper eyelids, also has a draining activity on bags and attenuates dark circles.
Pracaxi Oil acts on periocular wrinklesknown as “miracle oil”, which increases the hyaluronic acid content and the density of the collagen structure (3).The effect is completed by two peptides, defined biologically active ingredients “tailored”, which stimulate the production of new collagen and relax the muscles in a reversible and safe way, resulting in a botox-like tensor effect, with a relaxing action on expression lines and on crow’s feet (4).
The lifting effect on the relaxation of the upper eyelids is given by the synergy of two plant components, obtained from the bark of Albizia julibrissin, with anti-glycating effect and from the leaves ofSiegesbekia orientalis or Darutoside known as the “get well soon” plant for its healing and regenerating properties, and capable of increasing the synthesis of collagen and elastin. The different colored components of dark circles act on theAlpha Glucosyl Hesperidin, bio-flavonoid contained in citrus peel with antioxidant and vasoprotective action (5).
the phyto-complex obtained from the Oak bark and from Green tea performs an anti-inflammatory, tonic action on the microcirculation and decreases the production of melanin, reducing dark circles and improving bags under the eyes, making the skin uniform and healthy in color(6). Juniper essential oil, Theophylline and Caffeine contribute to the anti-puffiness action, with their draining and anti-edematous properties, while the stabilized Vitamin C and Bisabolol complete the anti-dark circles action with their anti-pigmenting action. and anti-inflammatory(7).
(1) Ivan Vrcek, Omar Ozgur, and Tanuj Nakra. ‘Infraorbital Dark Circles: A Review of the Pathogenesis, Evaluation and Treatmemt’. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2016 Apr-Jun; 9(2): 65–72. doi: 10.4103/0974-2077.184046
(2) Fernanda Magagnin Freitag, Tania Ferreira Cestari. ‘What causes dark circles under the eyes?’ J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007; 6(3): 211-5. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00324.x.
(3) Simmons CV, Banov F, Banov D. ‘Use of a topical anhydrous silicone base containing fatty acids from pracaxi oil in a patient with a diabetic ulcer’. SAGE Open Med Case Rep. 2015. doi: 10.1177/2050313X15589676.
(4) McArdle JJ, Lentz TL, Witzemann V, Schwarz H, Weinstein SA, Schmidt JJ. ‘Waglerin-1 selectively blocks the epsilon form of the muscle nicotinic acetylcholine receptor’.J Pharmacol Exp Ther. 1999; 289(1): 543-50.
(5) Huang YB1, Lee KF, Huang CT, Tsai YH, Wu PC. ‘The effect of component of cream for topical delivery of hesperetin’. Chem Pharm Bull (Tokyo). 2010; 58(5): 611-4.
(6) Katiyar SK, Matsui MS, Elmets CA, Mukhtar H. ‘Polyphenolic antioxidant (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate from green tea reduces UVB-induced inflammatory responses and infiltration of leukocytes in human skin’. Photochem Photobiol. 1999; 69(2): 148-53.
(7) Ochiai Y, Kaburagi S, Obayashi K, Ujiie N, Hashimoto S, Okano Y, Masaki H, Ichihashi M, Sakurai H. ‘A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties’. J Dermatol Sci. 2006; 44: 37-44.