Labs

In the chemistry labs at BeC-natura, our experts select raw materials every day from various providers to ensure we have the best ingredients the market has to offer.

They periodically evaluate the optimal preservation of both raw materials and finished products in storage. They determine the nutritional ingredients in the food supplements and devise nutritional charts (vitamins, mineral salts, carbohydrates, proteins, lipids, etc), evaluate the presence of any impurities or allergens in the raw materials used, study the absorption of active ingredients of the cosmetic formulations on the human epidermis, and evaluate the level of sun protection of specific products in vitro.

All studies are conducted using modern analytical instruments including High-Performance Liquid Chromatography with a Photodiode Detector (HPLC-DAD), Ultra-Performance Liquid Chromatography combined with Mass Spectrometry (UPLC-MS) Gas-Chromatography (GC), Gas-Chromatography combined with Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS), Visible UV Spectrophotometry, Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy (AAS).

List of our lab’s findings:

• GC-MS analysis of Essential Oils and other volatile compound mixtures (via GC-MS or GC-FID)
• GC-MS analysis with SPME (in head area and in immersion) of traces of volatile compounds in aqueous solutions
• HPLC-DAD analysis of parabens and other preservatives
• HPLC-DAD analysis of hydro-liposoluble vitamins
• HPLC-DAD or UPLC-MS analysis of phenols, polyphenols, and flavonoids in vegetal extracts
• HPLC-DAD or UPLC-MS analysis of specific active ingredients in vegetal extracts and cosmetic ingredients
• Findings on cations and hydrides (metallic) in water using AAS
• Findings on cations and hydrides (metallic) in complex matrices of vegetal origin and in cosmetic/food formulations using AAS
• Findings on anions (chlorides, bromides, iodides, etc.) using HPLC-DAD
• Findings on total nitrogen in prepared foods (Kjeldahl method)
• Findings on fat content in prepared foods (via Soxhlet extraction)
• Findings on carbohydrate content in prepared foods (by enzymatic method, via UV-VIS Spectrophotometry)
• Findings on water content in powders (via thermobalance)
• Findings on iodine levels, peroxide levels, and free acidity in oils and fats
• Spectrophotometric finding for oxidation of oils and fats
• In vitro findings on level of sun protection of UV filters (UV-VIS Spectrophotometry)
• Study of the kinetics of dissolution and/or release of active ingredients of tablets and capsules (via UV-VIS Spectrophotometry)
• Study of the kinetics of transepidermal perfusion of active ingredients in cosmetic formulations (via Franz cells and HPLC-DAD, UPLC-MS, GC-MS analysis or spectrophotometry)
• Findings on total and soluble dietary fibres
• Characterisation of content in fatty acids and vegetal oil sterols, cosmetics, and supplements (via GC-MS)
• Findings on purity grade of raw cosmetics and food materials (via UV-VIS Spectrophotometry)
• Findings on dry herbal extracts
• Findings on food allergens and toxins using ELISA or UPLC-MS method

This lab primarily conducts the activities connected with the development of the cosmetic product formulations, including determination of the physical-chemical specifics (pH, viscosity, density, refractive index etc.) of the product, the study of the rheological behaviour of a formulation or mixtures of ingredients which will become part of the cosmetic formulation, the studies on the stability of a cosmetic formulation, studies of compatibility between cosmetic formulation and packaging.

Determination of the physico-chemical specifics.

These controls are essential for both the characterisation and the evaluation of the conservation of any given compound over time. Analyses can be either subjective or objective.

List of findings of our technical lab:

• Findings on the pH of cosmetic formulations
• Findings on the viscosity of cosmetic formulations and ingredient mixtures (using the Brookfield viscometer)
• Findings on the refractive index of liquids (using the Abbe refractometer)
• Findings on liquid density, creams, and powders (using the pycnometer)
• Study of the rheological behaviour of solutions, emulsions, and gels (using PC interfaced IKA Labortechnik)
• Study of the stability of cosmetic formulations (thermal stability, centrifugation, etc.)

This lab primarily conducts microbiology studies on food ingredients and cosmetics (vegetable extracts etc.) which enable us to select the purest and safest raw materials available on the international market.

Most of these studies fall within the field of microbiology on finished products, for both food supplements or cosmetics, in order to guarantee microbiological purity and complete safety for the consumer. Lastly, cell cultures of selected bacterial and fungal strains are analysed in order to test the stability of products without preservatives over time (Challenge test), and/or study the antiseptic qualities of the cosmetic formulations and certain specific ingredients like essential oils.

Here, incubations of reconstituted human epidermal membranes are preserved to be employed in studies of diffusion kinetics of active ingredients (see chemistry laboratory).

These studies allow us to scientifically demonstrate the effects of the products on the skin and serve as a starting point for composing the instructions and general characteristics of the product to be included on the labelling. The protocols used at BeC-natura for efficacy testing on cosmetic products are defined by the ‘in vivo’ studies, using non-invasive methods exclusively by healthy and informed volunteers. Cutaneous parameters are evaluated:

• TEWL (transepidermal evaporation)
• pH
• hydration
• sebaceous secretion
• elasticity,
• roughness of skin
• subcutaneous micro-circulation

This lab also carries out studies on cutaneous tolerance of cosmetic formulations and ‘patch tests’ to guarantee the safety of the consumer.

Lastly, efficacy studies are undertaken ‘ex vivo’ for hair products, that is, on real hair strands (cut locks) of varying type.